A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about la mouette

Cape Town, South Africa: From A to Z, Part 2

JOY
The oldest residential neighborhood in Cape Town, Bo Kaap is known for its charming, joyfully colorful houses.

cdd53900-31a5-11eb-a854-7919fa7e27a8.jpg

large_cd8655b0-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

cd7c6aa0-31a5-11eb-ace9-335d772caeb0.jpg

large_ccf27a20-31a5-11eb-ace9-335d772caeb0.jpg

Formerly known as the Malay Quarter, Bo Kaap is the historical center of Cape Malay culture in Cape Town and the oldest surviving residential neighborhood in the city.

cc8f99a0-31a5-11eb-a922-8dc3b6b70170.jpg

cce2c2b0-31a5-11eb-b89e-21a3dd9e4dce.jpg

large_ccb4add0-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

cc8c6550-31a5-11eb-a854-7919fa7e27a8.jpg

cc5cf0e0-31a5-11eb-a50f-9bc6aa55e88e.jpg

large_cc8d0190-31a5-11eb-b1df-0fb2e57d44ef.jpg

cc69e930-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

cc5cc9d0-31a5-11eb-85f5-136e9492b31b.jpg

large_cc29abe0-31a5-11eb-b1df-0fb2e57d44ef.jpg

cc2b0b70-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

cd928ab0-31a5-11eb-a854-7919fa7e27a8.jpg

cd880360-31a5-11eb-a922-8dc3b6b70170.jpg

large_cda6d600-31a5-11eb-b1df-0fb2e57d44ef.jpg

cdfe92f0-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

cdb506d0-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

ce350c40-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

large_ce564fe0-31a5-11eb-a854-7919fa7e27a8.jpg

ce16aed0-31a5-11eb-a854-7919fa7e27a8.jpg

ce7b15f0-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

ce9be460-31a5-11eb-a854-7919fa7e27a8.jpg

cec56560-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

large_cf133740-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

cf34f010-31a5-11eb-a854-7919fa7e27a8.jpg

large_cf5e4a00-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

large_cfd66030-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

d064bd80-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

d0af5b10-31a5-11eb-aefc-7151b03ff7cd.jpg

large_d0075b40-31a5-11eb-a854-7919fa7e27a8.jpg

large_cc31c230-31a5-11eb-a922-8dc3b6b70170.jpg

KHAYELITSHA
A shameful relic of apartheid, Cape Town's Khayelitsha district was formed in the early 1980s when Xhosa-speaking Blacks from the Eastern Cape moved westward to Cape Town in search of work. The apartheid regime sought to solve this "problem" by establishing new Black neighborhoods -- including Khayelitsha, which means "new home" in Xhosa -- on the outskirts of Cape Town, then forcefully relocating the Black population to these districts. In reality, the Xhosas' "new home" is the world's fifth-largest slum.

68a28cd0-31bf-11eb-a71f-2b09df6b7464.jpeg

large_0aa344a5e2734652a698556f60a20327.jpg

Heartbreakingly, cardboard boxes and corrugated-metal shipping containers, which stretch as far as the eye can see, still serve as home to almost 400,000 people.

large_CapeTown_Khayelitsha_920_613_80.jpg
Khayelitsha photos are not mine.

To help the residents of Khayelitsha or one of Cape Town's other districts, visit Arm in Arm in Africa.

LA PETITE TARTE
If Khayelitsha is the worst of Cape Town, then the city's trendy De Waterkant neighborhood -- an area once inhabited by slaves but now home to both Blacks and whites -- shows that cultural diversity makes an area more vibrant and interesting. Today De Waterkant features cobblestone streets, sidewalk cafés, a diverse popuation, and a great little bistro, La Petite Tarte.

large_01606ca0-37ef-11eb-b354-7b3af8f20c89.jpg

It's like they knew I was coming.

f8396ff0-37ee-11eb-911a-97176251a41a.jpg

fa482bb0-37ee-11eb-a317-ebda4e045fda.jpg

La Petite looks like a shabby chic farmhouse, minus the stray cats and plus the extra charm.

fa12c3d0-37ee-11eb-b354-7b3af8f20c89.jpg

large_f95bcfe0-37ee-11eb-b354-7b3af8f20c89.jpg

f7dc5bd0-37ee-11eb-911a-97176251a41a.jpg

f9b5afb0-37ee-11eb-b354-7b3af8f20c89.jpg

large_f985ed20-37ee-11eb-a317-ebda4e045fda.jpg

La Petite's menu was so good that we couldn't just order just one entrée. Which is how we ended up having bobotie, a Croque Monsieur, and a chicken pot pie for lunch.

fa7a8650-37ee-11eb-b354-7b3af8f20c89.jpg

f92cd0a0-37ee-11eb-96f7-3d1d17d4bc99.jpg

large_f9e15390-37ee-11eb-a317-ebda4e045fda.jpg

large_f8ae9ff0-37ee-11eb-911a-97176251a41a.jpg

large_f87121c0-37ee-11eb-911a-97176251a41a.jpg

What is bobotie, you ask? Pronounced "ba-BOH-tee," it's a classic South African baked casserole of curried ground beef with a creamy, custard-like egg topping. So kind of like a spicy Shepherd's pie, if Shepherd's pie was one of the best things you'd ever tasted.

large_f933ae70-37ee-11eb-a317-ebda4e045fda.jpg

We even behaved ourselves.

f8e407d0-37ee-11eb-b354-7b3af8f20c89.jpg

Just kidding.

f89ff9f0-37ee-11eb-8516-c3da2915f9f0.jpg

f8c9f020-37ee-11eb-96f7-3d1d17d4bc99.jpg

large_f98cf200-37ee-11eb-8db6-03257f9dcea8.jpg

MOUETTE
La Mouette, which means "the seagull," is housed in an Tudor building in Sea Point that was once home to the town's mayor.

large_8262a3f0-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

7feb8970-73cb-11eb-8f1f-b56961014c9e.jpg

7fd409d0-73cb-11eb-96e6-431005b1b3ae.jpg

80560b10-73cb-11eb-8f1f-b56961014c9e.jpg

large_81412e60-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

It was the perfect choice for Christmas dinner, suffused with soft amber light and warmed by cozy fireplaces.

80218d90-73cb-11eb-b44a-473dee21b08f.jpg

807a34e0-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

large_80bdcd90-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

large_810ab510-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

823615b0-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

large_8b3258e0-73cb-11eb-8cb1-7be1c7b03178.jpg

The visually stunning five-course tasting menu didn't hurt, either. Who wouldn't want parmesan custard(!!!) with cauliflower and hazelnut crumble; braised short ribs with celery root tacos; burrata with honeycomb and arugula oil; and herbed gnocchi with edible twigs and and truffle snow, all topped off with a gorgeous passionfruit curd with coconut and mango sorbet for dessert?

82c75930-73cb-11eb-8cb1-7be1c7b03178.jpg

large_8294fe90-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

81f82250-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

81cd8fe0-73cb-11eb-8cb1-7be1c7b03178.jpg

large_816cf950-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

80807670-73cb-11eb-af2c-bf2b4647ec7e.jpg

large_80a27d60-73cb-11eb-8cb1-7be1c7b03178.jpg

large_80e5a0e0-73cb-11eb-8cb1-7be1c7b03178.jpg

7fcf00c0-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

7ff9e150-73cb-11eb-9a3a-e90b560107ef.jpg

80540f40-73cb-11eb-92d7-b9da47c507bc.jpg

Most charming of all? The chef had saved all of his original, handwritten recipes from his early days as a cook, then framed them for display when he finally got his own restaurant.

809277d0-73cb-11eb-8f1f-b56961014c9e.jpg

large_80270bd0-73cb-11eb-b3a7-75d63b51f9bf.jpg

Now that's the kind of place I can (celery) root for.

OWL COTTAGE
We knew we'd be doing a lot of driving on this trip -- from Sea Point to Stellenbosch, Clifton to Constantia, and points in between -- and so we chose our home base carefully. That turned out to be the chic seaside suburb of Hout Bay.

large_19bc2cc0-73f0-11eb-8589-abf5176776de.jpg

We decided to stay at Owl Cottage, a charming bungalow in the Victorskloof area with a veranda overlooking the sea and Chapman's Peak, and a sweet, flower-filled patio out back.

183601f0-73f0-11eb-91fa-95b438c0ba66.jpg

large_1a1c4e20-73f0-11eb-a5d4-1ffe33630be3.jpg

18faffa0-73f0-11eb-8589-abf5176776de.jpg

large_195e0730-73f0-11eb-a5d4-1ffe33630be3.jpg

large_19e70d50-73f0-11eb-a5d4-1ffe33630be3.jpg

1a549c30-73f0-11eb-8589-abf5176776de.jpg

1ae76650-73f0-11eb-8589-abf5176776de.jpg

large_237900d0-73f0-11eb-8589-abf5176776de.jpg

18d4da00-73f0-11eb-91fa-95b438c0ba66.jpg

Inside, the cottage was bright and spacious.

large_18722090-73f0-11eb-a114-c96e04356bd4.jpg

18ac6a70-73f0-11eb-8589-abf5176776de.jpg

large_18d6d5d0-73f0-11eb-a5d4-1ffe33630be3.jpg

large_1928c660-73f0-11eb-a5d4-1ffe33630be3.jpg

1853ea30-73f0-11eb-b020-41f4a409aba4.jpg

18351790-73f0-11eb-9615-516674e99800.jpg

1881d800-73f0-11eb-9615-516674e99800.jpg

18a601d0-73f0-11eb-91fa-95b438c0ba66.jpg

large_19834270-73f0-11eb-8589-abf5176776de.jpg

And my sister made sure it was decked out for Christmas, with a pair of homemade, safari-themed stockings.

1a8dd4a0-73f0-11eb-8589-abf5176776de.jpg

They were perfect for smuggling home a couple of blocks of feta.

PENGUINS
After lunch on Christmas Day, I got the best Christmas present of all time: A trip to Boulders Beach in False Bay to the see the penguins.

large_fc5b9540-749d-11eb-b766-dd52688090e1.jpg

fd2aa510-749d-11eb-b473-1544dd48da11.jpg

large_fc63f9b0-749d-11eb-aa03-4574dcd3e3b6.jpg

a2932530-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg

a236fb70-749a-11eb-bc6c-194a2923f35c.jpg

a7255780-749a-11eb-b918-81193d4de9bd.jpg

a3721380-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg

large_a3a30e90-749a-11eb-b918-81193d4de9bd.jpg

a4157f70-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg

African penguins are obviously adorable, but they are also hilarious, clumsily waddling about, falling asleep at inopportune times, and adopting a little spread-eagle stance when it's time for a rest.

fc95b810-749d-11eb-b766-dd52688090e1.jpg

a3dff080-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg

large_a4fdbc90-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg

a5976480-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg

9d7fc2b0-749f-11eb-b473-1544dd48da11.jpg

a5c10c90-749a-11eb-b918-81193d4de9bd.jpg

bc6f52d0-749a-11eb-b918-81193d4de9bd.jpg

a64f42d0-749a-11eb-b918-81193d4de9bd.jpg

large_a487c940-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg

ROUNDHOUSE
On our first night in Cape Town, we knew we'd be exhausted from the flight and ready for some pampering. And so we chose The Roundhouse, an upscale spot nestled under Table Mountain and overlooking Camps Bay.

large_914ece70-74ac-11eb-affa-87bae4f295f4.jpg

926f0b80-74ac-11eb-806b-9dd1eaa05efc.jpg

91c89250-74ac-11eb-806b-9dd1eaa05efc.jpg

9199e130-74ac-11eb-86e4-9f2b51200b1f.jpg

916cddc0-74ac-11eb-8ef8-47ce695e8480.jpg

90cbbbc0-74ac-11eb-afdf-3b72da54f4f4.jpg

Founded in 1786, the Roundhouse was originally built as a guardhouse for the Dutch East India Company, as the location was ideally situated to keep watch of enemy ships. Today it is ideally situated to have a great arrival-night meal, which on this night included cured trout with miso and tahini puree; steamed kingklip with burnt apple and fish-bone cream; beef in Rooikrans (an evergreen also known as acacia cyclops) coal oil; lamb belly with carrot and cashew puree; and Karoo Farm ostrich with caramelized milk, turnip, and sunchoke.

912fadb0-74ac-11eb-81b7-35b8bde4a54a.jpg

9171e6d0-74ac-11eb-806b-9dd1eaa05efc.jpg

large_91ebf8d0-74ac-11eb-9a6d-2d5f7d2dff47.jpg

92403350-74ac-11eb-9a6d-2d5f7d2dff47.jpg

92cd7f30-74ac-11eb-806b-9dd1eaa05efc.jpg

large_980c4530-74ac-11eb-806b-9dd1eaa05efc.jpg

Dessert #1 featured buffalo yogurt with carrot and satsuma sorbets and white chocolate caramel, while Dessert #2, which was described only as "coconut, rose, lychee, green tea," featured ice cream "soil" and a swirl of dry ice.

90fe8b90-74ac-11eb-8e37-73bb514a9b56.jpg

921a34c0-74ac-11eb-806b-9dd1eaa05efc.jpg

large_912378b0-74ac-11eb-806b-9dd1eaa05efc.jpg

large_91887c10-74ac-11eb-9a6d-2d5f7d2dff47.jpg

STELLENBOSCH
Affectionately referred to as "Stellies," Stellenbosch is South Africa’s second oldest town and the epicenter of the Cape Winelands region.

fefc0f10-74b0-11eb-9d1b-7167bdf41522.jpg

feb716d0-74b0-11eb-9d1b-7167bdf41522.jpg

01c14990-74b1-11eb-9d1b-7167bdf41522.jpg

fdffadb0-74b0-11eb-aa3b-17d495c03c84.jpg

large_fddbaaf0-74b0-11eb-bc3d-d351adb97016.jpg

It's also great place to wonder why you don't just move here already.

large_fe8f4380-74b0-11eb-85d9-b548feae8119.jpg

fe6b19b0-74b0-11eb-9d1b-7167bdf41522.jpg

fe347950-74b0-11eb-85d9-b548feae8119.jpg

large_fe2a8e40-74b0-11eb-bc3d-d351adb97016.jpg

fe066470-74b0-11eb-9568-4572c81f7076.jpg

large_fe571c80-74b0-11eb-9568-4572c81f7076.jpg

large_fdc62720-74b0-11eb-aa3b-17d495c03c84.jpg

TOKARA
Tokara Estate is situated over 1,300 feet above sea level on top of the Helshoogte Pass outside Stellenbosch. I have no idea how to pronounce "Helshoogte," but after a wine tasting here, the variations are endless.

f178e000-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

efb02df0-74b7-11eb-ad35-51ff8207105f.jpg

large_f2b816c0-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

f1360aa0-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

large_f3de6e50-74b7-11eb-ad35-51ff8207105f.jpg

large_f1df1be0-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

The drive alone to Tokara is worth the trip.

ef593450-74b7-11eb-996a-070718949dec.jpg

large_f093fe40-74b7-11eb-ad35-51ff8207105f.jpg

large_f1ad3670-74b7-11eb-ad35-51ff8207105f.jpg

In addition to wine, Tokara offers tastings of its four different types of extra virgin olive oil.

f0ca0260-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

f303c5c0-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

f21c7300-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

ef7e2170-74b7-11eb-becb-894798fca45b.jpg

large_f49c1900-74b7-11eb-ad35-51ff8207105f.jpg

efa53170-74b7-11eb-996a-070718949dec.jpg

large_efd25bf0-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

large_f0fcab20-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

large_f43ce200-74b7-11eb-ad35-51ff8207105f.jpg

large_f4ef6920-74b7-11eb-ad35-51ff8207105f.jpg

large_0c680440-74b8-11eb-ad35-51ff8207105f.jpg

f261b960-74b7-11eb-a859-9344aaffb564.jpg

ef5b3020-74b7-11eb-a7b0-b7ba91956182.jpg

large_ef2aaa40-74b7-11eb-86ba-23a98a283b0a.jpg

large_ef0d8550-74b7-11eb-a7b0-b7ba91956182.jpg

V&A WATERFRONT
The Victoria and Alfred Waterfront is the oldest working harbor in the southern half of the world. It also offers one of the most stunning vistas in the city, which is saying a lot in a place like Cape Town.

large_078fdd60-74ba-11eb-b351-093e57179f37.jpg

089629d0-74ba-11eb-92aa-ff6d5267cfc8.jpg

large_07cd3480-74ba-11eb-b351-093e57179f37.jpg

083f0920-74ba-11eb-951d-f1038cc0ac70.jpg

large_083bd4d0-74ba-11eb-b737-93c76e7ba463.jpg

large_0844d580-74ba-11eb-b351-093e57179f37.jpg

No, we didn't ride the Ferris wheel. When I miraculously made it down from Lion's Head alive, I decided not to push my luck with any more high-risk activities.

095c11e0-74ba-11eb-92aa-ff6d5267cfc8.jpg

WHISKEY
World-class whiskey in wine country? You bet your bitters there is.

cc2fe790-74bb-11eb-b666-7527adb7181c.jpg

cb94e010-74bb-11eb-951d-f1038cc0ac70.jpg

cb72d920-74bb-11eb-9cea-cf576a2d75ba.jpg

large_cabccf90-74bb-11eb-951d-f1038cc0ac70.jpg

Home to one of the largest whiskey collections in the Southern Hemisphere -- over 500 whiskies from nearly every producing region in the world -- Bascule Bar in the Cape Grace Hotel complements the hotel’s nautical vibe, located as it is down a narrow stairway leading to what might well be the hull of a ship.

cb1fd720-74bb-11eb-9cea-cf576a2d75ba.jpg

caa57700-74bb-11eb-88f5-bd9f71a7a838.jpg

large_cb004130-74bb-11eb-951d-f1038cc0ac70.jpg

cbc39130-74bb-11eb-951d-f1038cc0ac70.jpg

caab9180-74bb-11eb-8684-0f72bb025475.jpg

ca0a6f80-74bb-11eb-951d-f1038cc0ac70.jpg

ca8b8660-74bb-11eb-951d-f1038cc0ac70.jpg

cbfa0a80-74bb-11eb-951d-f1038cc0ac70.jpg

You can even get your own whiskey locker.

cb76f7d0-74bb-11eb-b666-7527adb7181c.jpg

X, Y, Z
Look, I got nothing for these letters. We played no xylophones, we ate no yams, and we covered the zebras in my safari posts. So how about some more penguins?

large_a2b09840-749a-11eb-b918-81193d4de9bd.jpg

a1e0ec30-749a-11eb-9b7e-253e7f0beb22.jpg

a30966a0-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg

a2dab580-749a-11eb-9413-0f7683b47ec8.jpg
-------------------------------------
You may have spent the pandemic baking bread, organizing your closets, and learning to play the ukulele, but I spent it not blogging. But now I'm back, baby, and there's at least a year's worth of trips to catch up on! Up next? Anguilla, Antigua, St. John, and any other island that will permit disease-ridden Americans to enter the country. Click here to subscribe and you'll be the first to know when there's a new post to get you through the continuing hellscape that is the year 2021!

Posted by TraceyG 13:43 Archived in South Africa Tagged cape_town penguins south_africa stellenbosch roundhouse bobotie bo_kaap la_petite_tarte bar_bascule owl_cottage host_bay la_mouette tokara Comments (1)

(Entries 1 - 1 of 1) Page [1]