A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about cap juluca

Anguilla, Pt. 2: A Fashion Emergency

We decided to spend the next day at Ocean Echo.

large_dea49db0-dec3-11e9-8ab8-ebc70237f77d.jpg

large_de19c2d0-dec3-11e9-ad48-5152c2e9ef9c.jpg

large_df9c9240-dec3-11e9-a5d4-0df567d47e7d.jpg

large_df4aefd0-dec3-11e9-ad48-5152c2e9ef9c.jpg

df08ddc0-dec3-11e9-ad48-5152c2e9ef9c.jpg

large_df73fba0-dec3-11e9-ad48-5152c2e9ef9c.jpg

large_df8364f0-dec3-11e9-8ab8-ebc70237f77d.jpg

df615e00-dec3-11e9-bb01-2bb9dfd438a9.jpg

The day was windy and the waves were bigger than we are used to, but it was too cold for these big babies anyway (March . . . brr!), so we spent most of the day occupying ourselves with other pursuits.

large_de8ccff0-dec3-11e9-a5d4-0df567d47e7d.jpg

large_de1be5b0-dec3-11e9-8ab8-ebc70237f77d.jpg

dfb6d100-dec3-11e9-8ab8-ebc70237f77d.jpg

large_dff73560-dec3-11e9-8ab8-ebc70237f77d.jpg

large_de8cf700-dec3-11e9-ad48-5152c2e9ef9c.jpg

decb5f90-dec3-11e9-ad48-5152c2e9ef9c.jpg

large_de5e9400-dec3-11e9-8ab8-ebc70237f77d.jpg

de367290-dec3-11e9-a5d4-0df567d47e7d.jpg

de49ac70-dec3-11e9-ad48-5152c2e9ef9c.jpg

df339740-dec3-11e9-bb01-2bb9dfd438a9.jpg

large_df17aad0-dec3-11e9-8ab8-ebc70237f77d.jpg

This poor guy. He never knew how close I came to grabbing that pizza and making a run for it.

large_e0165620-dec3-11e9-a5d4-0df567d47e7d.jpg

That evening our friends Diana and Carl had invited us over for cocktails and snacks at their place on Barnes Bay.

97c93e70-dec6-11e9-b5b0-9f2a5250a910.jpg

979bc5d0-dec6-11e9-9acb-df17eba68c9e.jpg

Diana is always impeccably dressed like a chic Parisian woman and Carl looks roughly 20 years younger than his actual age, but for some reason we really like them anyway.

large_984dd7c0-dec6-11e9-b5b0-9f2a5250a910.jpg

In addition, they were fabulous hosts, even kindly arranging to cap off our visit with this spectacular sunset.

972424d0-dec6-11e9-85a3-1da58c9f3000.jpg

large_96902230-dec6-11e9-809d-ad8eec255a17.jpg

large_976d14b0-dec6-11e9-8f0b-3b25f33a3e2f.jpg

97e68a70-dec6-11e9-8778-0d88a9356891.jpg

large_97338e20-dec6-11e9-809d-ad8eec255a17.jpg

We had already made separate dinner plans, so Angel and I headed over to nearby Picante to get our faces melted off.

large_99ccd9d0-deca-11e9-a38b-abcafd8f91ec.jpg

99da4750-deca-11e9-b7a5-1da94c47c85f.jpg

large_99cf71e0-deca-11e9-9910-279c5d2f48f4.jpg

large_99a6db40-deca-11e9-9cd5-0d5926af7480.jpg

We tried a few new things on this trip -- Theron's spicy chili, the grilled chipotle prawn burrito, a basil mojito -- as well as Old Faithful, the seafood enchiladas.

large_9a761220-deca-11e9-93c4-7b9553612ca6.jpg

large_9ac8c600-deca-11e9-b2b5-ed93a4b2587a.jpg

large_9a130a90-deca-11e9-87ca-899481ffc428.jpg

large_99fcc370-deca-11e9-9cd5-0d5926af7480.jpg

99e0fe10-deca-11e9-95d3-9d77f5790717.jpg

large_99904600-deca-11e9-b7a5-1da94c47c85f.jpg

9a333cc0-deca-11e9-93c4-7b9553612ca6.jpg

large_9a061240-deca-11e9-8a55-b74cda5150e8.jpg

The next morning, a disaster of unprecedented proportions befell us: Due to a fender-bender near Four Seasons, the power went out.

No power meant no iron, and no iron meant that I had to scare up an outfit that didn't look like it had been balled up and shoved into the bottom of a hamper (or, you know, into a suitcase too small by half). By some miracle I'd hung up the dress I'd worn to Ferryboat, and so I suffered through the ultimate indignity -- not only did I have to be seen in public in a dress that hadn't been freshly ironed, but I had to be seen in public in a dress I'd just worn two days earlier.

Decked out in my vêtements vulgaires, we headed over to Cap Juluca, where I hoped that my messy bun and artfully rumpled dress gave off an air of "too rich to care," rather than "I just showered in a swimming pool and am wearing yesterday's clothes . . . again."

30359e80-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

large_30483c20-dff6-11e9-b6bd-b517af61f516.jpg

Oh, did I not mention that no power also meant no water pump for showers? Thank heavens for that very private swimming pool.

fb111560-db9d-11e9-b986-8188990c7295.jpg

Luckily most folks at Cap are too busy looking at the stunning beach and stylish renovation to notice a fashion faux pas.

large_da4821e0-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

da53e1b0-dff6-11e9-b6bd-b517af61f516.jpg

large_d9d5d810-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

dc9baed0-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

d9885450-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

large_d9483e10-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

large_d974f360-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

da0ee970-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

f29f3c80-dffe-11e9-bc76-151620aaba51.jpg

dbe83d50-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

dbf75880-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

large_dd2ca430-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

dcf20c30-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

da70b880-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

large_dacb3490-dff6-11e9-b6bd-b517af61f516.jpg

da8ca4f0-dff6-11e9-b6bd-b517af61f516.jpg

large_d90b0e00-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

Or they just dismissed me as some weird picture-taking blogger . . .

302d6120-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

3095e6f0-dff6-11e9-b6bd-b517af61f516.jpg

Or that nitwit who went for a swim in the decorative pool. Whichever.

30664b70-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

Renovated Cap has several new restaurants, including an updated Pimms, a poolside cafe, the casual, waterfront Cip's, and the Cap Shack beach bar.

db91b8e0-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

db5747f0-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

large_db456da0-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

db23b4d0-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

large_da041400-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

d9a61580-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

d9be5870-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

large_d92af210-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

large_d8f3b570-dff6-11e9-b6bd-b517af61f516.jpg

d8dde380-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

d93d4190-dff6-11e9-b6bd-b517af61f516.jpg

large_dcbec730-dff6-11e9-9b35-ff73ed856cee.jpg

dbcb1860-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

large_dc2e1ff0-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

large_dc11e560-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

dcd5aa90-dff6-11e9-8a17-553bd3751bb5.jpg

e3173a90-dff6-11e9-9972-bd24f23b1ffa.jpg

Eventually we headed back to the villa to see if the power had been restored, and sweet baby Jesus, I was saved! I happily headed out to lunch in a clean, freshly-ironed dress.

large_d5e3b550-e001-11e9-a030-5130e8f25875.jpg

Clad, at long last, in clean pressed clothes, we made the short trip across the salt pond for lunch at a longtime favorite, Tratttoria Tramonto.

large_0eadd9e0-e054-11e9-8f57-1371f0f5e804.jpg

7cd40690-e001-11e9-ae03-85d9d67aeb3a.jpg

large_7be95870-e001-11e9-a030-5130e8f25875.jpg

7d0b9150-e001-11e9-a030-5130e8f25875.jpg

large_7d2a3ce0-e001-11e9-8862-71a463686404.jpg

7d320510-e001-11e9-bee5-1188ccae2f40.jpg

7d750180-e001-11e9-a3b8-37195af275dc.jpg

At our usual corner table, we tucked into penne with basil pesto; a wild boar prosciutto panini with parmigiano, arugula, and white truffle oil; and the most gorgeous tomatoes I think I've ever seen (or tasted).

7c8ec030-e001-11e9-ae03-85d9d67aeb3a.jpg

large_a58a6610-e11e-11e9-9f59-315bb86b2bc3.jpg

7ce7dcb0-e001-11e9-bee5-1188ccae2f40.jpg

large_7d1ad390-e001-11e9-a3b8-37195af275dc.jpg

7da2c840-e001-11e9-a030-5130e8f25875.jpg

large_7ceb8630-e001-11e9-8ad5-a5587d6a3f9e.jpg

7cade0f0-e001-11e9-8862-71a463686404.jpg

After lunch, we alternated among reading, napping, swimming, and sipping.

7bf195d0-e001-11e9-8862-71a463686404.jpg

large_0e2f0cf0-e054-11e9-a12d-2f71e79cf98c.jpg

7c418a90-e001-11e9-a030-5130e8f25875.jpg

large_7d4d7c50-e001-11e9-9d0f-edddd0d9bd59.jpg

7c968860-e001-11e9-8069-95948dbb5feb.jpg

large_7d88feb0-e001-11e9-bee5-1188ccae2f40.jpg

And, you know, ironing everything left in my suitcase . . . just in case.

------------------------------------------------------------
CLICK HERE to read Part 3!

Posted by TraceyG 06:15 Archived in Anguilla Tagged anguilla picante cap_juluca ocean_echo trattoria_tramonto Comments (7)

Cap Juluca: The Best Day of the Week is Maunday

How do you wrap up a sublime stay on an idyllic island known for its breathtaking beaches, fantastic food, and stunning scenery?

2017_Cap_Opener3__-_1.jpg

With a stay at Belmond Cap Juluca, that's how.

large_2017_Cap_OpenerRedo__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap__-_2.jpg

2017_Cap__-_12.jpg

2017_Cap__-_4.jpg

2017_Cap__-_9.jpg

large_2017_Cap__-_5.jpg

large_2017_Cap__-_7.jpg

2017_Cap__-_3.jpg

large_2017_Cap_TTGopenhat2__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Opener2__-_3.jpg

2017_Cap__-_1.jpg

2017_Cap__-_10.jpg

2017_Cap__-_11.jpg

2017_Cap_Opener__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap__-_14.jpg

But to call it a stay is really to sell it short. Cap Juluca isn't just a stay, it's an experience.

large_2017_CJ_TT..bikini__-_1.jpg

That experience begins when you arrive and are led through a series of Moorish arches into the stunning open-air lobby.

2017_Cap_Lobby__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Lobby__-_2.jpg

The soaring white dome dotted with touches of pale blue mimics the powder-white sand and turquoise sea just beyond.

2017_Cap_Lobby__-_8.jpg

2017_Cap_Lobby__-_6.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Lobby__-_3.jpg

2017_Cap_Lobby__-_5.jpg

2017_Cap_Lobby__-_4.jpg

2017_Cap_Lobby__-_12.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Lobby__-_10.jpg

Then again, the pedestrian "turquoise" doesn't even begin to sum it up. Is the water azure? cerulean? teal? sapphire?

large_2017_Cap_Lobby__-_7.jpg

Yes, it is.

A complimentary rum punch arrives during check-in, and soon you find yourself wondering: Is the rum is getting to you, or does every single staff member you've encountered thusfar really know your name already?

2017_Cap_Lobby__-_13.jpg

Yes, they do.

In fact, no matter the question, the answer at Cap Juluca always seems to be "yes."

Fresh fruit and cheese awaiting us in our room? Yes.

2017_Cap_Room__-_6.jpg

2017_Cap_Room__-_7.jpg

An icy bottle of Côtes-du-Rhône to accompany it? Yes.

2017_Cap_Room__-_8.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Room__-_2.jpg

2017_Cap_Room__-_4.jpg

2017_Cap_Room__-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_Room__-_5.jpg

2017_Cap_patio__-_4.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Room__-_3.jpg

A beachfront villa with a view of a sea so blue that it doesn't look real? Yes.

large_2017_Cap_patio__-_6.jpg

large_2017_CJ_PatioArch__-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_villout__-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_patio__-_3.jpg

2017_Cap_patio__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_patio__-_5.jpg

And a private solarium where one can sunbathe au naturel should the mood strike? Oh, yesssss.

large_2017_Cap_TTGnekredo_-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Bathroom__-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_Bathroom__-_7.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Bathroom__-_2.jpg

2017_Cap_Bathroom__-_6.jpg

Indeed, the only down side to all this pampering is how easy it is to get used to. And so, when you return to the real world and your boss inexplicably fails to address you as "Mrs." and doesn't pull out your desk chair for you and neglects to bring you a rum punch while you draft that memo, you can start to feel rather slighted.

large_2017_Cap_TTGlounger__-_1.jpg

We'd already been on island for nine days when I surprised Angel with a short stay at Cap Juluca to wrap up his birthday celebration. I wasn't sure he'd appreciate having to pack, unpack, and then re-pack in order to move hotels, but it turned out I had nothing to worry about: When we first arrived on the island, an immigration officer noticed the repeat visits on our passports and asked Angel what his favorite beach was. Expecting him to mull it over before answering, I was stunned when Angel responded, without even a split second's hesitation, "Maundays Bay."

2017_Cap_O..xp__-_1__1_.jpg

The man has good taste. Named the number-one best beach resort in the world by Andrew Harper’s luxury travel magazine The Hideaway Report in 2013 and again in 2016, and one of the ten best beach hotels in the world by Coastal Living magazine in 2015, Cap's claim to fame is a pristine, secluded stretch of white sand and crystal-clear water, punctuated only by loungers, umbrellas, and serenity.

large_2017_Cap_beachsat_-_17.jpg

large_2017_Cap_SpecBeach__-_1.jpg

I mean, New Yorkers rarely smile as it is, let alone like this.

large_2017_Cap_AGSmile__-_1.jpg

We didn't have much time to spare, so after settling in at the room, we sunk our feet into that floury sand and took a swim before lunch.

2017_Cap_beachsat_-_5.jpg

large_2017_Cap_beachsat_-_10.jpg

large_2017_Cap_beachsat_-_6.jpg

large_2017_Cap_beachsat_-_2.jpg

2017_Cap_beachsat_-_15.jpg

large_2017_Cap_beachsat_-_13.jpg

2017_Cap_beachsat_-_14.jpg

large_2017_Cap_beachsat_-_9.jpg

2017_Cap_beachsat_-_8.jpg

large_2017_Cap_beachsat_-_7.jpg

large_2017_Cap_LastSoakd__-_3.jpg

Eventually we tore ourselves away, but only because food was waiting.

large_F619E68D0DD5763B9305282B5ADDF452.jpg

F61E2ECCE5BA5ABA838B0CF8FBED5119.jpg

F6206B23A733C4487CB4AE150943C8CB.jpg

F620E3840D00423D27C37BEEF79A3003.jpg

large_F623122E9713E65A15264ECE0F217746.jpg

We snagged a front-row table at the beachfront Blue, where Angel perused the menu while I continued to nurse my rum punch from check-in. This, of course, did not go unnoticed by our server, who immediately inquired, "Would you like some more ice for your drink, Mrs. Gonzalez?"

F61EA65A0C12300C52951CCBC5789F39.jpg

Why, yes. Yes I would.

And maybe a Junior Special with Bailey's, coconut, banana, and nutmeg to wash it down.

large_F6227EA3DA36B3466BA16172FB3B59C5.jpg

F621E6EA07586F7215EEEA3C645D3D66.jpg

F61FC512D456C7B16777FCD627CEB6CE.jpg

I know that pita bread and bikinis make for bloaty bedfellows, but the lobster salad with lemon vinaigrette was calling my name, and who was I to ignore it?

2017_CJ_TTGlobby__-_1.jpg

large_2016_Cap_AGedits__-_2.jpg

Angel ordered more sensibly, deciding on the "deconstructed" Caesar salad topped with a spicy Serrano chili frico.

F61F3408E76F74D38DA6B85608A1A641.jpg

F61D38E0EC19415DEA9C03E10816137D.jpg

And we both kicked things off with the cool, refreshing honeydew cucumber gazpacho with shrimp salsa.

2016_Cap_AGCJredos__-_2.jpg

The service at lunch had been impeccable -- warm and friendly, but also professional -- but that came as no surprise, since Belmond operates some of the world's poshest hotels (the five-star La Samanna in St. Martin), restaurants (the famous "21" Club in New York City), and even trains (the Orient-Express!), with Cap Juluca being the most recent addition to its collection.

large_2016_Cap_e..ueview__-_1.jpg

After lunch we ignored the advice of mothers everywhere and catapulted ourselves straight into the water for a swim.

large_2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_16.jpg

2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_18.jpg

large_2017_CJ_AGskinny__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_10.jpg

2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_13.jpg

large_2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_7.jpg

large_2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_2.jpg

2016_Cap_AGedits__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_17.jpg

2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_14.jpg

2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_AftSwim__-_3.jpg

By late afternoon we were ready for another cocktail, but this is Cap Juluca: They certainly won't be stopping by your lounger every so often to see if you'd like anything (wouldn't want to disturb you), and you certainly won't be getting up to get it yourself (wouldn't want you to even have to stand up, let alone walk 10 paces to the beach bar).

large_2017_Cap_BeachDrinks_-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_BeachDrinks_-_2.jpg

And so you simply reach up and send out a distress signal, and a server appears with a menu and a smile.

large_2017_Cap_BeachDrinks_-_3.jpg

2017_Cap_BeachDrinks_-_5.jpg

large_2016_Cap_AGCJredos__-_1.jpg

We stopped by the pool on our way back from the beach.

large_2017_Cap_Pool__-_8.jpg

2017_Cap_Pool__-_6.jpg

2017_Cap_Pool__-_4.jpg

2017_Cap_Pool__-_2.jpg

Though we both agreed that the pool is lovely, it is also about as useful as a screen door on a submarine when the world's largest swimming pool is just outside.

large_2017_Cap_Pool__-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_Pool__-_5.jpg

That evening we had reservations at Pimms.

2016_Cap_Pimms2__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_Pimmsopen__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_PimmsDinner__-_5.jpg

My reputation apparently precedes me, as we were thrilled to learn that the resort had graciously arranged for us to enjoy a complimentary tasting menu.

large_2017_CJ_TTGAGstairs5__-_1.jpg

Widely regarded as one of the most romantic restaurants in the Caribbean, Pimms is set directly over the water at the west end of Maundays Bay, affording a front-row seat to the waves below as well as a panoramic view of the bay.

2017_Cap_PimmsDinner__-_6.jpg

2017_Cap_PimmsDinner__-_2.jpg

large_2017_Cap_PimmsDinner__-_3.jpg

large_2017_Cap_PimmsDinner__-_8.jpg

The resort's new chef, Gabriel Kolofon, was born in Argentina and most recently cooked in Riviera Maya, Mexico, bringing a beachy vibe to Pimms and a little Latin flair to the lounge at Spice.

large_2017_CJ_TTGAGchairs__-_1.jpg

We were over the moon when Chef Gabriel came out to consult with us on the tasting menu, offering recommendations and suggesting that we go off-menu for a course or two so that he could introduce us to a few of his favorite dishes from Spice as well. He even arranged for us to receive our own dish for each course so we could share our thoughts, but not our food. (Like I said . . . my reputation precedes me.)

2017_Cap_PimmsDinner__-_1.jpg

We settled in with a favorite bottle of wine -- the excellent Clos Beylesse "blue bottle" rosé -- and spent a few giddy minutes speculating as to what surprises might be on their way from the kitchen.

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_17.jpg

The first was a conch fritter with spicy aioli, followed by cool, refreshing watermelon and feta salad with pickled onions, slivered almonds, arugula, and an anise-watermelon vinaigrette.

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_24.jpg

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_10.jpg

large_2017_Cap_PimmsDinner__-_9.jpg

Next, a creamy butternut squash risotto with calamari and aged parmesan appeared. If you're thinking that calamari and butternut squash make for an odd couple, let me assure you that they are actually having a hot, steamy affair.

2016_Cap_AGedits__-_3.jpg

large_2017_Cap_P..erRedo__-_1.jpg

The next course took us off-menu: A fantastic, crispy-skinned pan-seared snapper atop a sweet potato-couscous mash, accompanied by a rich, creamy sweet potato puree that could have been an entrée all by itself.

2017_Cap_P..erRedo__-_3.jpg

large_2017_Cap_P..erRedo__-_4.jpg

We'd devoured three courses plus an amuse-bouche thus far (leaving absolutely nothing, save for the carrot tops from the snapper dish) and apparently Chef Gabriel knows a couple of gourmands when he sees them. (As with most words, "glutton" sounds so much nicer in French, n'est pas?) And so, out came an Angus beef tenderloin with smoked truffle potato mash and tiny ceviche'd mushrooms . . . followed by a lemon-lime sorbet in Proscecco . . . followed by a plate of chocolatey baked goods . . . followed by dessert.

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_18.jpg

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_15.jpg

large_2017_Cap_P..inner__-_16.jpg

The tenderloin was bathed in the most decadent sauce I think I've ever had -- a creamy truffle foie gras sauce so sinfully delicious that we could probably call off the war on drugs if they'd just bottle this stuff up and give it away.

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_19.jpg

The desserts were magically tailor-made for our individual tastes: A velvety vanilla creme brûlée with blackberry and raspberry sauce, gelled raspberries, and a crunchy vanilla cookie crumble (for me) . . .

large_2017_Cap_P..inner__-_23.jpg

. . . and a chocolate soufflé with vanilla bean ice cream, plus ginger biscotti and a tart sauce of strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries to balance the sweetness of the soufflé's warm, gooey center (for Angel).

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_20.jpg

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_21.jpg

large_2017_Cap_P..inner__-_22.jpg

It had been the meal of a lifetime: Four courses of sheer perfection -- plus conch fritters, plus the sorbet and Prosecco, plus the tiny cakes, plus an icy bottle of our favorite rosé -- all tailored to our specific tastes by one of the most thoughtful and talented chefs we've ever had the pleasure of meeting.

Even if all of our chatting and photographing did mean that we lost a little bit of that vanilla-bean ice cream along the way.

2017_Cap_P..inner__-_25.jpg

We made our way back to the villa, guided by a full moon illuminating the night sky.

large_2017_Cap_AtNight_-_2.jpg

2017_Cap_VillaAtNight_-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_VillaAtNight_-_4.jpg

2017_Cap_AtNight_-_4.jpg

Back in our room, the small hurricane we'd left behind in our scramble to make our dinner reservation on time had miraculously disappeared: Our clothes were folded into neat little piles, our shoes were paired off and stowed away, the lights had been dimmed, yards of mosquito netting were draped over the perfectly-turned-down bed, and a citronella candle glowed softly in a corner.

2017_Cap_V..tNight_-_12.jpg

large_2017_Cap_VillaAtNight_-_7.jpg

And as if the entire setup couldn't get any more romantic, we had just snuggled under the sheets when a light rain began to fall, pattering softly against the wooden hurricane shutters and lulling us into a deep, blissful slumber.

The next morning we bounded out of bed with one thing on our minds. No, not bacon . . . or, rather, not just bacon. We needed another swim in Maundays Bay.

large_2017_CJ_TT..bikini__-_3.jpg

2017_Cap_BeachSun_-_10.jpg

large_2017_Cap_BeachSun_-_11.jpg

large_2017_Cap_AGroperedo__-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_BeachSun_-_1.jpg

Breakfast is complimentary at Blue for guests of the resort, so we secured a beachfront table, then took at a peek at the offerings.

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_BlueRedo__-_1.jpg

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_15.jpg

large_2017_Cap_BluePano__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_B..ekbeach_-_1.jpg

In addition to baked goods, smoked salmon, and assorted yogurts and cereals, there's hot food (eggs, sausage, and the aforementioned bacon), along with an omelet station.

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_10.jpg

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_13.jpg

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_11.jpg

large_2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_16.jpg

large_2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_4.jpg

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_8.jpg

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_5.jpg

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_6.jpg

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_7.jpg

2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_9.jpg

Although I'd declined an iced tea from our server earlier, I changed my mind and went up to the buffet to grab one. I found the tea, along with glasses and straws, but didn't see any ice. I must have been wearing a confused expression because, literally within seconds, I heard someone stage-whisper, "So-and-so! HELP Mrs. Gonzalez, please!"

large_2017_Cap_BlueBrekkie_-_3.jpg

As with the other pampering Cap offers its guests, this kind of treatment, too, has set unrealistic expectations at home, where I now expect to have every single thing I want at the exact second I want it . . . and Angel now expects that sooner or later, he is going to have to shoot me.

After breakfast, we made a beeline back to the beach for one last swim in that glorious water.

large_2017_Cap_L..Orange__-_1.jpg

large_2017_Cap_BeachSun_-_3.jpg

large_2017_Cap_BeachSun_-_6.jpg

large_2017_CJ_TT..bikini__-_2.jpg

That's when we noticed that a ground sea had rolled in while we were at breakfast, bringing with it a few tiny pieces of seaweed.

large_2017_Cap_BeachSun_-_9.jpg

large_2017_Cap_LastSoakd__-_2.jpg

I was tempted to ask the staff if someone could come out and pluck it out of the water by hand, but figured I'd better not.

I knew the answer would be "yes."
-----------------------------------------------------
2017_Cap_seaweed3__-_1.jpg

Posted by TraceyG 07:34 Archived in Anguilla Tagged beaches maundays_bay cap_juluca pimms belmond british_west_indies Comments (11)

Anguilla, Stage 4: Doing a Little Moonlighting

Another day, another spectacular sunrise. Angel was still sick, so I let him sleep until 6:30 this time.

large_2016_Aug_AXA_sunriseb_-_1.jpg

We spent most of the morning at the pool, not wanting to head off to the beach until we could judge Angel's condition.

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_1.jpg

Here he is praying for one more cheeseburger.

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_3.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_2.jpg

We had to share the pool with a visitor, but he didn't drink much, so we didn't mind.

large_2016_Aug_AXA_birdredo_-_1.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..rdredo2_-_1.jpg

2016_Aug_A..eanBird_-_6.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_birdredo_-_2.jpg

Unfortunately Angel still wasn't feeling well as the morning progressed, and neither Pepto-Bismol, nor ginger-ale, nor bitters, nor even rum had done the trick. We figured we had nothing to lose by getting him a big bowl of rice to soak up the remaining poison, so we set off for Ocean Echo for some stir-fry.

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_20.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_4.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_11.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_19.jpg

There, Angel managed to smile his way through a swim at Mead's, but when the water looks like this, you'd probably find yourself beaming even if the grim reaper was standing on shore just waiting for you to get pruney.

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_13.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_9.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_10.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_5.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_23.jpg

Our man Delacroix took great care of us, making sure my glass of boozy lemonade remained filled and chilled.

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_12.jpg

2000_Aug_El_TTGleg_-_1.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_18.jpg

The rice helped settle Angel's stomach a bit, and we both managed a short but sublime period of pure, unadulterated joy.

large_2017_AXA_MeadStrips_-_1.jpglarge_2017_AXA_MeadStrips_-_2.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_21.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_15.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_22.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_14.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_6.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_Ocean2_-_17.jpg

By that evening, however, Angel was back to feeling pretty awful, and Stage 4 of Anguilla Vacation Grief, depression, was starting to set in. Not only did we have just three days left, but at the rate we were going, we were going to spend all three of them not at the beach, but in bed (Angel) or at the pharmacy (me). Worse still, we were going to spend all three of them cheeseburger-less. (You know things are bad when the person who is dying of dysentery is actually less upset than the one who didn't get her second cheeseburger.)

That night we stayed in for dinner, since Angel wasn't eating much anyway and resting up would do him some good.

We agreed that I would set the table and prepare the wine while Angel made a quick run over to CeBlue to pick up a couple of pizzas. (Yes, we sent poor, sick Angel out instead of me. Do you really think that pizza would actually make it back to the house if I picked it up?)

We'd had lunch at CeBlue on our previous trip, and the brick-oven pizzas had been divine -- charred, chewy dough with bubbly, blistered edges and a variety of fresh toppings.

2016_Aug_A..uePizza_-_1.jpg

This time, however, we were disappointed: Instead of brick-oven pizza, we ended up with two rounds of cardboard topped with some sauce. Luckily we still had enough lobster from that Straw Hat mac & cheese to salvage them.

2016_Aug_A..ndinner_-_8.jpg

The pizza might have a been a letdown, but the evening itself was positively magical: A full moon danced off the nearby waves, bathing the pool and patio in shimmering moonlight. We soaked up the spectacular surroundings, trying to imprint them on our memories forever, as we sipped our wine, dangled our feet in the pool, gazed at the glowing moon, and counted our many blessings.

2016_Aug_A..ndinner_-_1.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..ndinner_-_2.jpg

2016_Aug_A..ndinner_-_4.jpg

2016_Aug_A..ndinner_-_5.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..ndinner_-_3.jpg

By the next morning, I was getting desperate to make sure Angel enjoyed his last few days of our vacation, despite the fact that he probably should have been enjoying a stay at Princess Alexandra. And so we set off for a morning swim at his favorite beach, Maundays Bay.

large_2017_AXA_TS_-_2.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_CJuluca_-_4.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_CJuluca_-_3.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_CJuluca_-_7.jpg

2016_Aug_AXA_CJuluca_-_5.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_CJuluca_-_6.jpg

large_2016_Aug_AXA_CJRedo_-_1.jpg

I continued my campaign ("Make Angel Great Again") by then whisking him off to CuisinArt, where I figured that if his favorite drink on the island couldn't cure him, nothing could.

large_2016_Aug_A..sinArt_-_14.jpg

2016_Aug_A..sinArt_-_11.jpg

2016_Aug_A..isinArt_-_8.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..isinArt_-_7.jpg

2016_Aug_A..isinArt_-_4.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..sinArt_-_19.jpg

We kept our lunches on the light side to avoid riling up Angel's insides any more than necessary.

2016_Aug_A..isinArt_-_2.jpg

2016_Aug_A..isinArt_-_3.jpg

2016_Aug_A..isinArt_-_5.jpg

2016_Aug_A..isinArt_-_9.jpg

2016_Aug_A..isinArt_-_6.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..sinArt_-_13.jpg

2016_Aug_A..sinArt_-_10.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..sinArt_-_16.jpg

2016_Aug_A..sinArt_-_18.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..isiRedo_-_1.jpg

We spent the rest of the day back at the villa, Angel alternating between napping in the cool AC and joining me at the pool.

2016_Aug_A..ceyblue_-_2.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..ceyblue_-_1.jpg

Happily, by that evening Angel felt well enough to go out again, and so we got dressed and popped over one of our favorite spots on the island, E's Oven.

2016_Aug_A..lue_-_1__1_.jpg

2016_Aug_A..lue_-_2__1_.jpg

2016_Aug_A..ceyblue_-_3.jpg

2016_Aug_A..ceyblue_-_5.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..ceyblue_-_6.jpg

Have you been to Anguilla more than a few times, but still haven't been to E's? Look, I know you love dining on the water. It's breezy and beachy and romantic. But you can't see the waves at night anyway, and even if you could, there is no sight -- day or night -- more glorious than E's coconut-crusted grouper with banana-rum sauce atop a bed of curried beans.

2000_Aug_E..venfish_-_2.jpg

large_2000_Aug_E..venfish_-_1.jpg

The grilled red hind amuse-bouche and spiny lobster spring rolls with orange-chili sauce are no slouches, either.

large_2016_Aug_A..ceyblue_-_7.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..ceyblue_-_8.jpg

And because Angel wasn't feeling well enough to finish his grouper, somebody got to have the leftovers.

2016_Aug_A..eyblue_-_13.jpg

large_2016_Aug_A..eyblue_-_15.jpg
----------------------------------------------
We still have 36 hours left, and that's plenty of time for meatballs, BBQ, lobster pasta, chicken roti, and even some old-school guavaberry coladas. Click here to read Part 5!

Posted by TraceyG 04:44 Archived in Anguilla Tagged cuisinart cap_juluca e's_oven moondance_villa ocean_echo Comments (8)

A Sweet Return to Anguilla, Pt. 5: Revenge of the Herds

After a quick morning dip in the pool, it was off to Maunday's Bay for lunch at Cap Juluca.

large_2015_AXA_CapJ_23.jpg

One of the island's oldest and most beloved resorts, Cap greets visitors with simple Mexican-tiled paths and spare white Moorish architecture, offering little hint of the stunning beach just beyond.

2015_AXA_CapJ_1.jpg

2015_AXA_CapJ_2.jpg

large_2015_AXA_CapJ_20.jpg

large_2015_AXA_CapJ_4.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_34.jpg

Lunch at Cap's beachfront restaurant, Blue, is an elegant affair, with cobalt stemware, turquoise chairs, sapphire vases, and a view of the sea in all those shades and more.

2015_AXA_CapJ_03.jpg

2015_AXA_CapJ_02.jpg

2015_AXA_CapJ_04.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_35.jpg

large_2015_AXA_CapJ_08.jpg

The food ain't too shabby, either.

2015_AXA_CapJ_07.jpg

2015_AXA_CapJ_14.jpg

large_2015_AXA_CapJ_15.jpg

The sandwich above is lobster salad on a Johnny cake. Which is to say, the only way to improve upon it is to serve it with a side of cheeseburger.

2015_AXA_CapJ_21.jpg

large_2015_AXA_CapJ_16.jpg

2015_AXA_CapJ_22.jpg

large_2015_AXA_CapJ_12.jpg

You can even get your daily serving of fruit here.

2015_AXA_CapJ_05.jpg

large_2015_AXA_CapJ_06.jpg

Although Cap's beach is technically public, the cushy chaises are for hotel guests only (in past years, Angel's smile -- or a crisp $50 bill if the beach attendant wasn't female -- was enough to secure two loungers and an umbrella, but sadly not anymore). So we headed off to Mead's Bay for piña coladas and some shade at Blanchard's Beach Shack.

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_27.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_26.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_25.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_28.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_04.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_06.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_05.jpg

And, as it turned out, hordes of people.

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_14.jpg
Just look at them all!

Now, I live in New York City, and I know a crowd when I see one. And that day on Mead's, there was a crowd. We tried to enter the water, and there she was: A lady with the audacity to be floating almost within shouting distance on a noodle. We immediately made a break for the beach, but at that same moment, an older couple had the gall to pass by hand-in-hand. Practically close enough to say hello to us! What was this, Grand Central Station at rush hour?

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_02.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_01.jpg
Oh, the humanity!

Exasperated, we retreated to our loungers, only to find that someone had parked themselves on the lounger next to ours. Right beside! I'm telling you, it was like Times Square up in there.

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_03.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_08.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_07.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_09.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_10.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_11.jpg
The noise was deafening.

And so, we made a beeline for the bar at Blanchard's Beach Shack to order some frozen drinks . . .

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_22.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_25.jpg

. . . only to find that there was a line.

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_24.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_21.jpg

Sure, back home there's a waiting list for everything from delivery rooms to burial plots, but in Anguilla? It was just too much.

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_29.jpg
I've seen shorter lines at the post office on tax day!

We grabbed our drinks, left our stuff to the mercy of the multitudes on the beach, and sprinted away, down the beach to the little cove at Malliouhana.

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_38.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_20.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_13.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_16.jpg

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_17.jpg

There, we delighted in the tiny fish nipping at our ankles and reminisced about the Mead's Bay of yore.

2015_AXA_MeadsBay_33.jpg
Circa 1999

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_18.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_19.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_36.jpg

Finally, as the day wound to a close, we were left in peace at long last.

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_31.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MeadsBay_32.jpg

That evening, we set off for the Viceroy's Sunset Lounge for you-know-what.

2015_AXA_Viceroy2_3.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Viceroy_35.jpg

Okay, fine, there was a sunset, too.

large_2015_AXA_Viceroy_08.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy2_5.jpg

Can you believe this was our first visit to Viceroy? Well, except for a little stalking when they first opened.

2015_AXA_ViceroyBush_1.jpg

We'd of course heard that the Viceroy vibe was more Miami than Mead's, and that the crowd could be a little New York-y (which ranks just behind sun poisoning and shark bite as the last thing we want to deal with on vacation). But we found that the Viceroy struck a sophisticated, elegant tone, and though we'd probably never choose it over the privacy of a villa or smaller resort, it was the perfect spot for a tasty pre-dinner cocktail.

2015_AXA_Viceroy_03.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy_01.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy_05.jpg

2015_AXA_TTGAGVIC_1.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Viceroy_12.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy_10.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Vicebar2_1.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy_25.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Viceroy_23.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy_11.jpg

Though some of the interior décor seems a little dark (both literally and figuratively) given the surroundings, overall we loved the inventive use and rich textures of the wood, marble, granite, and other natural materials.

2015_AXA_Viceroy2_6.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy_29.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Viceroy_33.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy_32.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy2_1.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Viceroy_30.jpg

Though I have to draw the line at these creepy chairs.

large_2015_AXA_ViceroyChairs_1.jpg

One of several restaurants on the property, Cobà is perched on a bluff with views of both Meads and Barnes Bays.

2015_AXA_Viceroy_20.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Viceroy_26.jpg

Though the Viceroy is known for its sunsets, it's an even better spot for a Sunrise, which I ordered specifically because the menu said it came with "grapefruit cubes." As soon as I saw that, I immediately began pondering all the different ways molecular gastronomy could convert a grapefruit segment into a cube. Did they vaporize it? Anti-griddle it? Emulsify and then gelify it? My mind ran wild with the possibilities.

2015_AXA_Viceroy_17.jpg

Regrettably they did none of the above, though for $18, I think they should have at least attempted it. (Perhaps there'd been an unfortunate incident with a sous-vide machine?) But, cubes or no cubes, this was hands-down one of the best cocktails I've ever had, in Anguilla or anywhere else, and I'd happily fork over the dough for another Sunrise next time we are on island. (I won't pay $25 to rent a sunbed for the day, but I will happily spend that same amount for a single cocktail. Priorities!!)

2015_AXA_Viceroy2_4.jpg

When the sun finally dipped below the horizon, we headed off, once again, to the only place we deem worthy of a repeat dinner: Dolce Vita.

large_2015_AXA_DVdog_1.jpg

2015_AXA_DV1_01.jpg

2015_AXA_Viceroy2_7.jpg

It was to be our last visit to DV on this trip, so we doubled up on the pastas to carry us through until next time.

2015_AXA_Dolce2_2.jpg

2015_AXA_Dolce2_1.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Dolce2_4.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Dolce2_3.jpg

Sadly, however, one thing was missing: Abbi was not there, which meant we wouldn't get a chance to say a proper good-bye.

But about halfway through dinner our beloved Pastafarian finally appeared, looking exhausted but nevertheless happy to see us. He later confided that he hadn't planned to come in at all that evening, but changed his mind when he saw our names on the reservations list.

I'll bet he says that to all the gluttons.

2015_AXA_Dolce2_5.jpg

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Click here to read Part 6!

Posted by TraceyG 09:35 Archived in Anguilla Tagged viceroy meads_bay dolce_vita cap_juluca march_1 blanchards_beach_shack Comments (3)

A Sweet Return to Anguilla, Pt. 9: Giving Me the Rum Around

It was our last full day on island, so a morning swim was in order. We jumped in the car, bumped down the path to the main road, and made the short drive over to Angel's favorite beach, Maunday's Bay.

large_2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_02.jpg

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_03.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_04.jpg

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_01.jpg

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_05.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_06.jpg

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_09.jpg

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_13.jpg

The beach was deserted, and the water was glorious.

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_11.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_12.jpg

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_14.jpg2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_15.jpg

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_10.jpg

And thanks to the early hour, we were spared the pitying eyes and pointing fingers of the resort guests, whose sixth sense for an interloper like myself is stronger than that kid who sees dead people.

large_2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_08.jpg

2015_AXA_MaundaySwim_16.jpg

Soon it was time to clean up for lunch at Straw Hat.

2015_AXA_StrawHat_23.jpg

large_2015_AXA_StrawHat_22.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_11.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_08.jpg

large_2015_AXA_StrawHat_10.jpg

Do you know what's better than the lobster mac & cheese at Straw Hat?

2015_MalliUse_1.jpg

That's a trick question -- nothing is better than the lobster mac & cheese at Straw Hat. But it wasn't on the menu, so we were left to order soup and sandwiches containing cheese instead.

large_2015_AXA_StrawHat_14.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_16.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_17.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_18.jpg

large_2015_AXA_StrawHat_19.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_13.jpg

We later learned that Straw Hat's new chef took the mac & cheese off the menu, which I find highly suspect. I mean, what kind of chef doesn't want to make mac & cheese?!? It's like a race car driver who finds driving around in circles kind of boring.

Luckily, hardly anything is boring when accompanied by passion fruit coladas and ti punch.

2015_AXA_StrawHat_04.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_02.jpg

large_2015_AXA_StrawHat_03.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_20.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_21.jpg

After an extended visit to the Petals boutique at Frangipani -- where I spent an ungodly amount of money on a bunch of dresses that even I have to admit look exactly like a bunch of dresses I already have -- we spent the rest of the afternoon swimming and sunning at Mead's Bay.

large_2015_AXA_StrawHat_05.jpg

2015_AXA_StrawHat_07.jpg

large_2015_AXA_StrawHat_09.jpg

large_2015_AXA_StrawHat_06.jpg

Oh look, my ride is here.

2015_AXA_StrawHat_24.jpg

Back at Sweet Return, we enjoyed one last afternoon swim before cleaning up for sunset cocktails and dinner at Malliouhana.

2015_MalliUse_5.jpg

large_2015_MalliUse_3.jpg

2015_MalliVel_04.jpg

2015_MalliUse_2.jpg

2015_MalliVel_20.jpg

2015_MalliVel_27.jpg

2015_MalliVel_26.jpg

Built in 1984 as one of Anguilla's flagship luxury resorts, Malliouhana was reborn last year after an 18-month, $80 million renovation. And as is usually the case, we kind of missed the old place . . .

2015_MalliVel_01.jpg

But really loved the new place, too.

2015_MalliVel_13.jpg

2015_MalliVel_16.jpg

2015_MalliVel_24.jpg

large_2015_MalliVel_22.jpg

2015_MalliVel_14.jpg

2015_MalliVel_09.jpg

2015_MalliVel_11.jpg

2015_MalliVel_08.jpg

large_2015_MalliVel_32.jpg

Indeed, our only quibble with the new design is that it's like the Odessa Steps up in there, with people tripping, slipping, and tumbling about on what seems like dozens of steps, most of which are steep, dimly lit, and downright dangerous for anyone old, infirm, wearing heels, sipping rum, or (ahem) all of the above.

2015_MalliVel_15.jpg

2015_MalliVel_12.jpg

I'd arranged for Angel to enjoy a surprise rum tasting before dinner, which I hoped would distract him while I took 3,000 photos of the sunset. And I'd timed it perfectly: Rum tasting at 5:30, dinner at 6:30; sunset at 6:50.

2015_MalliVel_35.jpg

large_2015_MalliUse_7.jpg

My plans were almost foiled, however, when Malliouhana tried to delay our rum tasting by half an hour in order to accommodate another couple who'd also reserved the 5:30 tasting, but decided at the last minute to first get massages instead.

2015_MalliVel_28.jpg

2015_MalliVel_29.jpg

2015_MalliVel_31.jpg

That's right: There are at least two people on this planet who would rather spend an hour getting rubbed down than liquored up. Like I always say: There's no accounting for taste.

2015_AXA_MalliRumRe_2.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRumRe_4.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRum_07.jpg

Luckily, the manager noticed our confusion and quickly stepped in, and after we explained in the nicest way possible that we didn't give a flying fig about anyone else's last-minute change of plans, we carried on without them at the appointed time.

2015_AXA_MalliRum_15.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRumRe_1.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRumRe_5.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRumRe_3.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRum_06.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRum_08.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRum_09.jpg

large_2015_AXA_MalliRum_10.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRum_11.jpg

2015_AXA_MalliRum_14.jpg

After the rum tasting, we successfully completed the obstacle course from the bar to our table, rewarding ourselves with a round of cocktails, including this vibrant Caribbean Hibiscus made with Mount Gay dark rum, hibiscus nectar, slivers of fresh ginger, and lime.

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_11.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_04.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_09.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_02.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_03.jpg

large_2015_MalliVel_19.jpg

2015_MalliUse_6.jpg

We sipped our cocktails and studied the menu as the sun began its slow descent into the sea.

2015_MalliVel_21.jpg

large_2015_MalliVel_33.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_10.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_07.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_08.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_01.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_23.jpg

The offerings at Malli are unusual and delicious, including the white garlic gazpacho with Guadaloupe melon and almonds that I ordered, and the curried goat sausage with whipped bananas and sweet potatoes that Angel was allowed to have some of.

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_12.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_14.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_13.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_16.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_15.jpg

That was followed with Angel's choice of the yellowfin tuna paillard, a carpaccio-style presentation that served as the base for artichoke, pickled fennel, roasted garlic, arugula, tonnato sauce, and crispy veal sweatbreads.

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_18.jpg

I decided on the gnocchi cacio e pepe, which was studded with caramelized cauliflower and brightened with a bit of lemon.

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_17.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_06.jpg

large_2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_05.jpg

As the sky deepened to an inky blue, I was forced to contemplate how I was going to make it up 28 flights of stairs in heels, in the dark, after a rum tasting followed by, well, more rum.

large_2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_25.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_19.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_24.jpg

Truly, it was like the blind leading the blind.

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_20.jpg

2015_AXA_Malli_Dinner_21.jpg

The next morning was our last before departure, so we lounged around the pool for a bit, then took a final walk along the beach that first captured our hearts almost twenty years ago, Rendezvous Bay.

2015_AXA_LastSwim_1.jpg

2015_AXA_LastSwim_2.jpg

2015_AXA_LastSwim_8.jpg

2015_AXA_LastSwim_3.jpg

2015_AXA_LastSwim_4.jpg

2015_AXA_LastSwim_6.jpg

We had time for one last lunch before departing, and if you think I was leaving the island without one last visit to Ferryboat Inn, I've got some Flat Earth Society literature that may be of interest to you.

2015_AXA_FBIlast_02.jpg

2015_AXA_FBIlast_11.jpg

Plus, is there any better sound in the whole wide world than your car tires rumbling over that little bridge?

large_2015_AXA_FBIlast_01.jpg

As we sipped our rum punches -- more slowly than usual to make them last -- reality slowly crept back in as we confirmed our flights and checked our email and carried on other important work, such as posting photos of French onion soup on Facebook.

2015_AXA_FBIlast_04.jpg

2015_AXA_FBIlast_03.jpg

Or, at least one of us did.

2015_AXA_FBIlast_06.jpg

Soon our food arrived, and it was time to get down to some real work.

large_2015_AXA_FBIlast_07.jpg

2015_AXA_FBIlast_09.jpg

2015_AXA_FBIlast_12.jpg

large_2015_AXA_FBIlast_10.jpg

2015_AXA_FBIlast_08.jpg

We'd dragged out lunch as long as possible, but eventually it was time to depart. We said our good-byes to Marjorie and Christian and made the short hop over to the dock.

As our boat sped away toward St. Martin and Anguilla grew smaller and smaller in the distance, I would like to tell you that my thoughts turned to the island's peacefulness and tranquility, or the kindness and generosity of its residents, or the talcum-powder sands and crystalline waters of its incomparable beaches.

2015_AXA_FBIlast_15.jpg

But really, I was just thinking about cheeseburgers.

2015_AXA_FBIlast_14.jpg

-------------------------------------------------------
Are you tempted to share these Anguilla blog posts with your sister-in-law, best friend, next-door-neighbor, or mailman so they, too, can discover what's so magical about our favorite island? If so, step away from the keyboard and contemplate this:

crowded-beaches-of-rio.jpg

And remember, if anyone asks . . . you were in ANTIGUA.
--------------------------------------------------------

thumb_2015_AXA_FBIlast_13.jpg

Posted by TraceyG 07:43 Archived in Anguilla Tagged anguilla ferryboat_inn cap_juluca malliouhana may_13 straw_hat Comments (5)

(Entries 1 - 5 of 5) Page [1]