A Travellerspoint blog

A Sweet Return to Anguilla, Pt. 3: To Beet or Not to Beet

We awoke to another gorgeous day, with blue skies and warm breezes. Angel had inexplicably brought along a series of workout videos on his iPad, so we quickly settled into a morning routine: He cranked up the air conditioning and did his workout, while I lounged on the couch with a bowl of potato chips and shouted encouragements like, "Pick up those knees!" and "Move, maggot, move!"


As for me, I descended the few steps into the pool, took a quick dip, got back out of the pool, and counted it as stair-climbing.


We decided to head over to Smokey's for lunch because Cove Bay is usually calm and crystal-clear, and that cornhole game keeps everyone occupied at the west end of the beach, while we enjoy the peace and quiet at the east end.






A friend once told me that the drunkest she'd ever been was not at a frat party, or on her 21st birthday, or when George Clooney announced that he would be marrying someone else. It was at Smokey's, and from the looks of this drink menu, you can understand why.


We kicked things off with a tall, frosty pina colada topped with freshly-grated nutmeg, along with Smokey's "special" rum punch, which is exactly the same as their regular rum punch, except that you will need fewer of them before ending up face-first in the cornhole.




We decided to share an order of the melt-in-your-mouth tuna tartare garnished with citrus, then wrapped things up (heh-heh) with a couple of savory chicken rotis, which were fragrant with yellow curry and loaded with tender chicken, potatoes, and carrots.





Those roti had two vegetables in them, which is at least two too many for a vacation, so we ended up sharing some with our dining companion.



The day was shaping up to be somewhat cloudy, leaving Cove Bay an otherworldly shade of green, and leaving us blissfully alone for the entire afternoon.







Well, just us and Captain Morgan.




Back at Sweet Return, we took a late afternoon swim before cleaning up for dinner.





That evening, we had reservations at the lovely Jacala for dinner.







Yes, we have heard the occasional rumblings about Jacala's host, Jacques, being somewhat brusque. (Someone recently asked what came with the hamburger and he responded, "Bread.") But just as Mango Dave wasn't really a jerk, he was just from New Jersey, Jacques isn't actually brusque . . . he's just from France. And in our experience, the French aren't gruff or snobby; they just appreciate politeness, succinctness, and good manners. And so we return here again and again, knowing that as long as we keep our elbows off the table, our napkins in our laps, and Freedom Fries, Napoleon, and Gerard Depardieu out of the conversation, we will not be tossed out like yesterday's poisson.



With all of this in mind, we had just settled in at our candlelit waterside table and were expertly swirling and sniffing our glasses of Sancerre and congratulating ourselves on our impeccable table manners when the unthinkable happened.


An amuse-bouche arrived, two small shot glasses filled to the brim . . . with the vilest substance known to man. No, not Mountain Dew. It was my bĂȘte noire . . . BEETS! Beet soup, to be exact, not that the form mattered: Those tiny shot glasses might as well have been oil tankers, such were my chances of actually being able to choke one down.

I stole a desperate glance at Angel, who looked as though Jacques had set a very large tarantula in front of him and asked him to eat that instead. He bravely took the tiniest of sips, then winced and forced down a gag. So much for my plans to pawn my shot glass off on him.

We knew that we were probably on shaky ground at this most Francophile of restaurants already, being both American and fat, the latter thanks to yesterday's cheeseburger and rum punch-a-palooza. But both of us absolutely détestons les beets. So there we sat, frozen by fear, smiling uneasily as we frantically racked our brains for ideas on how to politely dispose of the beet soup without offending Jacques or, worse, actually having to eat it.

And so we did the only thing we could do. We waited until the coast was clear, then I pretended to fiddle with the strap on my sandal, while discreetly returning the beets to the sandy soil from whence they came. Just like it says in the Bible.


I'm sorry, Jacques. My apologies, Alain. Everything else you served us was absolutely delicious, and gloriously beet-free. That includes this beautiful timbale of tuna tartare with wakame, olive oil, and ginger . . .


. . . and the cool, refreshing cucumber gazpacho topped with a perfect little scoop of spicy tomato sorbet, which I maintain should be sold by the half-gallon and come with a spoon so you can get started right away.



On this visit, however, I think I may have found something even better than the justly-famous tomato sorbet: A massive pile of succulent grilled crayfish, served with a tiny seafood fork for picking the little suckers clean.






And, finally, two complimentary shot glasses full of Jacala's sweet, smooth vanilla-bean vodka.


Which sure beats beets.
Suddenly have the urge for a trip to France now? Click here! Just want more Anguilla? Click here for Part 4!

Posted by TraceyG 05:43 Archived in Anguilla Tagged anguilla jacala smokey's cove_bay feb_22

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You mean that there's something on God's green earth that you don't eat? Crazy!

Loved this report. We've always appreciated Jacques', well, Jacques-ness. A little brusque in our first interaction, growing warmer with each subsequent one. I also LOVE that cucumber soup, and the best crayfish I've had was at Jacala.

by Emily Crowe

Oh boy! Chuckling mightily over the beet scenario.

by daffy

I'm so enjoying your posts, LOL, you have quite the sense of humor. This is my 23rd stay on Anguilla and I never tire of its people, beaches, and especially restaurants. Friday was my special birthday treat at Hibernia, again Raoul did an amazing job with our dinners and Mary Pat always the gracious hostess. Maybe I will see you out and about.

by Kathleen Manfredo

Kudos to Angel for the stunning photos he always captures of you.

by mary

Laughed out loud! We even invited an extra dose of Jacques by ordering Steak Tartare which of course he prepared table side. We also could not resist the basin filled with crayfish...it had to be ordered!

by David Lee

What a great day! Laughed out loud reading about the beet incident- I did the same thing last summer in Toronto with Lemoncello - sorry potted plant! Keep the laughs and great photos coming!

by Quetsch

The cucumber gazpacho is beyond as is everything at Jacala!

by S Worthington

OMG....BEETS! Literally one of the only foods in the universe I can't choke down. As we say here in the south, "Ya done good, honey."

by Vicki

Rum punch-a-palooza! I need (yes, I need) to attend a rum punch-a-palooza! (Can I manage that in the same week as National Margarita Day? Hmmm - shall use best efforts ... ) I do so very much enjoy your writing. Your good humor and grace in ... well, adversity may be too strong a word given the circumstances, but I think you are "a real swell gal."

by Patricia

Love Smokey's, and having it all to yourself, bliss.

by Denise

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