A Travellerspoint blog

New York, New York: It's a Helluva Town

This month marks twenty years that I have lived in New York City -- nearly half my life. It's quite an accomplishment, really, when you consider that New York is excessively noisy, grossly overcrowded, ridiculously inconvenient, and monstrously expensive.

It also happens to be the greatest city in the world.

Arriving home

I showed up in a rented U-Haul on a blustery day in March of 1994 to the sound of blaring horns, hollering cabbies, and a cacophony of foreign tongues, all of which I am sure were cursing me out for double-parking on a busy downtown street. I was overwhelmed and exhilarated and completely unprepared for the unrelenting pace. Just ordering a sandwich in a deli -- the crowding, the yelling, the line moving at the speed of light and the deli guys all barking "NEXT!" at the exact same time -- was enough to send me fleeing without my food. Well, almost.

I didn't know a soul. I had never taken a subway before. I didn't know which neighborhoods were safe, or where to get a decent bagel, or how to negotiate the city's mangled sidewalks in heels. "Evens go east, odds go west," I'd mumble to myself as I attempted to navigate the bustling canyons. I didn't dare look up or stop to consult a map, lest all of my NYC nightmares come true at once: I'd tumble into an open manhole, get hit in the head by a falling air conditioner, be mowed down by the passing crowd, and have my purse stolen . . . but not before the thug beat me with it for good measure.

My first New York apartment, on 26th Street

I was young and brave and stupid all at the same time. I'd never been jostled by so many people, bombarded by so much noise, or exposed to so many casual and creative uses of the F-word in my entire life. (Once, in SoHo, I saw a young father carrying his toddler on his shoulders. When I passed by, I heard him mutter, "Goo-goo, ga-ga . . . what the f*ck does that mean?") Worst of all, I was not at all sure that I'd made the right decision in uprooting my comfortable life in Pennsylvania for one that seemed to promise nothing but hassles.

P.J. Clarke's, on 55th Street

In fact, the only thing I was sure of . . . is that I was in love.

Rockefeller Center

Times Square

Empire State Building


East Village

Central Park

And much like love itself, the energy here is a drug (and the only legal one you're likely to encounter): It draws you in, gets you hooked, and keeps you coming back for more. Living in this city has changed me in more ways than I can count: I talk faster, walk faster, am faster to offer, er, opinions, and have been exposed to more wealth, poverty, diversity, art, culture, architecture, and amazing food than I ever dreamed.

Capital Grille in the Chrysler Building

Waaayyyy more amazing food.

Coca-cola carnitas at El Camion

Paella at Soccarat

Cheesesteak at Bobby Van's

Skillet sticky-toffee pudding with medjool dates at The Smith

Coconut sponge cake with passion fruit pudding at Buddakan

Fish gyro with lobster ragout at Anassa Taverna

Sparkling blood orange mojitos at Cafeteria

Steamed eggs with chèvre and sundried cherry tomatoes at Buvette

Wild mushroom dumplings with truffle foam at Breeze

French onion soup burger at Little Prince

Cocoa-pumpkin ravioli at Becco

Chicken pot pies at Parnell's

Tilapia with cherry tomatoes and shrimp at La Gioconda

Ground chuck and brisket burger at Hillstone

Veal parmigiana at Giorgio's of Gramercy

The Generous Pour event at Capital Grille

Birthday dinner at Maloney & Porcelli

Birthday milk and cookies at Jane

Birthday dinner at Le Bernadin

Of course, into the life of every food-lover, the occasional crapcake must fall.


My entire identity as an adult has been shaped by the grit and grind of this city, imbuing me with a sense of determination, confidence, sophistication, and good old-fashioned gumption that I might never have acquired if I'd stayed in Pennsylvania, or moved somewhere like Cleveland or Charlotte.

View from our bedroom

View from our living room

The city's skyline is always changing, and our view now includes the tallest residential tower in the western hemisphere: 104 stories.

Our favorite local park, Greenacre Park

Lining up for the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade

The famous tree arriving at Rock Center



It's almost ready...

Crowds gathered for the tree lighting, as seen from Angel's office

Cocktails at the Rock Center Rink Bar

Central Park in springtime

Macy's Fourth of July fireworks over the Brooklyn Bridge

In fact, New York has turned me into a walking contradiction: I swear like a sailor and argue like a lawyer, but I also know my Prabal Gurung from my Proenza Schouler, and could pick David Chang or Andrew Carmellini out of a lineup. I speak fluent "restaurant-menu" Italian and have a small vocabulary in both Spanish and Yiddish. (It's mostly curse words, but whatever.) I can talk with some authority about the latest exhibit at the Met, or we can debate whether the dirty-water dogs are better at Yankee Stadium or CitiField. And I completely agree that New York pizza is the best you will ever have (Lombardi's) . . . and the worst you will ever have (all variations of the "Original" Ray's).

Lombardi's coal-oven pizza


Restaurants along Second Avenue

Geographically speaking, New York City is an embarrassment of riches. Within a two-hour drive in any direction, we can be leaf-peeping in the Adirondacks, lounging on the beach in the Hamptons, sipping wine at a vineyard on the North Fork, relaxing in rocking chair at one of Cape May's Victorian-era "painted ladies," or biking the oceanfront bluffs on Block Island. Or, you know, watching people pee in the sand in the Rockaways.

And if we ever tire of road trips, there's everything from Broadway musicals and world-class museums to dive bars in the East Village and designer boutiques in SoHo.



Oh, and roughly 24,000 restaurants, which means I could eat at a different one every night for the next 65 years, and still never hit them all. Not for lacking of trying, of course.

Our summer lunch spot, Dos Caminos

Our Friday-night date spot, China Grill

The Saigon-tini at Le Colonial

Dinner at Tao

Our Sunday morning brunch spot, Le Bateau Ivre

Our favorite snowy-evening spot, Café Joul

View down our block


There are so many "only in New York" things to love about this city that it's hard to even name them all, and everyone's list would be different anyway. Mine would include everything from bodega cats and the Comedy Cellar to chocolate-chip-cookie delivery until 3am and nail salons open 24 hours a day. It would include the fact that there are nearly 200 bars in the East Village alone, and the fact that you can eat anything here from roasted crickets to ant caviar to goat-eyeball tacos (not that you would. It was hard enough just typing that). It would include a local moving company called Schleppers and a Chinese takeout place called Wok to Walk.

Views from my office (with a cameo by my desk lamp)

Outside my office building

On my way to work

Views from Angel's office

My list would also include the Manhattan Mini Storage ads for space-challenged New Yorkers. At least we can laugh at our shared misery.







Also making the list would be the inside-baseball references on Seinfeld and Law and Order, the Radio City Christmas Spectacular, living within walking distance of Bloomingdale's/Bergdorf's/Bendel, spring in Central Park, sending our laundry out for fluff-and-fold, the bacon burgers at Corner Bistro, and dressing extra-fashionably when I know they're filming on my block. It would include the free(!) ferry ride to a Staten Island Yankees game on a balmy June evening, as the boat glides by the Statue of Liberty, and even the most jaded among us whip out our camera phones and snap away.

Lower Manhattan

It would include being surrounded by art, culture, fashion, law, publishing, real estate, finance, and all the other industries that make this city pulse with bright, interesting, creative people. And people like me and Angel.

Sunset from our apartment

Indeed, the only downside to living in New York City is that I'm turning into one of those entrenched New Yorkers who won't ever be able to live anywhere else.

Park Avenue, midtown

Not that I'd ever want to.


It's always hard to tear ourselves away from the Big Apple, but this is still a travel blog. Up next, time with friends in Charleston, time alone in Paris, and time with tequila in Mexico. Click here to subscribe and you'll be the first to know how it's possible for a savvy New Yorker to become trapped in a public restroom on the swankiest street in Paris.

Want more NYC? Click here!

Posted by TraceyG 10:36

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And by default, I've grown to love it also! It's amazing how many of these restaurants I've eaten at with you!

by Trina

Am I allowed to say that everything about it that you love, I hate? I am so definitely a small town person that a car in front of me at a stop light makes me crazy. Love your posts and actually, sorta love your "love letter" to NYC.

by Mary Stevens

Nothing like NYC, but I can only deal with it for 3 days max. Same as London over here. First wife was from the city. Great pics of all the food!

by Bill Koraska

Wonderful to get this guided tour of your city (with a little food thrown in - natch)!!
I am in love with my city (London) and also cannot imagine living elsewhere. Every time I wander around and look at the beautiful architecture and living history I count my blessings to live somewhere that lifts my soul. We all find our place - thanks for sharing yours.

by Jan Clydesdale

You made it there! Love NYC and everything you wrote is spot on. I had the chance to live and work as "legal alien" (they really wrote this on the visa form ;-)) in NYC for a year in 1999 and loved it. I still recall how my coworkers tried to teach me about no go areas and food :-) Hardest thing was coming back home.

by Sternchen6116

Your writing always puts a smile on my face. My 16 year old daughter just visited your lovely city for the first time last week, and loved it.

Personally, I am intrigued about the Charleston trip as it's somewhere I long to go. I also can't wait to hear your thoughts on Mexico as I fight like a dog with the hubby every year about going there or Anguilla. He has won out the last two years, so I want to hear about where you stay and your thoughts. Until next time...keep writing, we love it!

by Toni

You are the best. See you soon. Where are we eating?

by Mark Certonio

Another wonderful report, Tracey. Brava!

by Emily @As the Crowe Flies

I love your blog, but I especially love this report. I have not yet been to NYC, but I do hope to get there sometime in the future. Reading this report made me want to get there sooner rather than later. Thank you for sharing!

by Naomi

I only wish I could live in NYC! Everything you love about it...I love about it. Visited again in Dec. 2014. Wish I could retire there but too expensive. Enjoy it for me!

by Carol

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